Tips and information on the open razor

• First start with a shavette razor or an inexpensive open razor. Razors are available from as little as $80.
• 5/8" (= inch) wide razor is a common size.
• A razor with a rounded tip at the end is less likely to cause cuts.
• Carbon steel razors are easier to sharpen and polish. Carbon steel does rust faster than stainless steel.
• Today's open razor is usually full-hollow-ground. The advantage of this is easier sharpening and smooth handling during shaving.

• The open razor is also suitable for heavy beard growth.
• 6/8" (= inch) wide razor is most suitable for shaving the heavy beard growth.

• An open razor will last a lifetime if properly maintained and stored.
• However, an open razor is fragile. Take care, avoid dents and store it properly.

The head or tip of the blade

• Rounded tip, most razors have a rounded tip
• Semi rounded tip
• Non-rounded or square tip

Different blade widths

• 3/8" (= inch)
• 4/8"
• 5/8", is the most common size and very suitable to start with
• 6/8", is a common size and suitable for heavy beard growth
• 7/8"
• 8/8"

The sharpening or concave shape of the razor blade (see image below)

• Flat-ground
• Full-hollow-ground, is the most common sharpening shape
• 3/4 hollow-ground

What steel the razor is made of

• Carbon steel or carbon steel is widely used for razors. It is easy to sharpen. This makes it very suitable for the novice razor. Carbon steel can rust. So maintain it well and store it dry.
• Silver steel
• Stainless steel is also widely used for razors. Stainless steel is harder and therefore more difficult to sharpen. Stainless steel does not rust.
• Damascus steel

• Use the open razor only for shaving. Do not test the razor's sharpness on paper.
• Never feel the edge with your fingers to see if it is still sharp.
• Do not walk around with an open folded razor. Always fold it closed after use.
• Close the razor gently to prevent the blade from biting the handle.
• After use, blow dry the razor well and lay it open to dry if necessary.
• If the razor accidentally falls out of your hand, let it fall and do not try to catch it.
• Always wear clothing while shaving. Do not shave naked in the shower.
• Avoid storing the razor in a damp area, such as the bathroom.
• Store the razor safely out of the reach of children.

Clean the skin beforehand with soap or a pH-neutral cleansing gel.

• Wet the face with lukewarm water.
• If necessary, use a pre shave oil or gel for extra protection during shaving.
• Lather the face well with a shaving soap or shaving cream.
• Let the shaving cream soak in for a while. This will soften and soften the beard hairs.
• With your favorite hand, shave both the right and left side of your face. Tighten the skin with the other hand.
• Hold the razor lightly and smoothly with your fingertips.
• Hold razor between thumb and 3 fingers - see instructional drawing
• Hold the razor at a 10-degree angle to the skin, slightly less for the cheek, chin and upper lip. Also hold at the correct angle (10 degrees) on the curves of the chin.
• Press the razor very lightly on the skin. Do not slide the razor blade straight down, but make a slight angle. Whereby the razor blade makes a more oblique cutting motion.
• Shave with the beard hairs first.
• Pull the skin taut while shaving with the other hand.
• Shave with gentle small and even movements.
• Start at the sideburns and cheeks, then the neck and finally the chin and mustache area.
• Remember to rinse the razor clean while shaving.

Open razor maintenance, of course, depends on the type of razor and how much it is used.

The method of maintenance is personal. The steps of maintenance below are a theoretical description.

There are 4 steps in the maintenance of the open razor. Straightening, polishing and sharpening are the main steps of maintenance.

Prior to each shave:

• Pointing
• Polishing

The finishing touch:

• Putting on

If the razor is blunt after some time:

• Sharpen 

• Rinse the straight razor thoroughly clean after use.
• Polish the razor dry with soft paper, such as tissue paper.
• Dry it well after shaving. If necessary, use a hair dryer to dry the razor.
• Always store the razor in a dry place. So not in the bathroom.
• Knives that will not be used for a long time should first be rubbed with oil.

• Of course, this depends on how you use the open razor.
• When the open razor pulls instead of cuts.
• If the razor is blunt.

The leather ironing belt has a leather side and a canvas side:

• The leather side is for polishing the blade.
• The canvas side is for cleaning or straightening the razor blade.

The ironing belt should be used before each shave for straightening and polishing the razor blade.

The tension belt is for the finishing touch and can be used once a month - depending on the use of the razor.

The tension belt can also be used well as an alternative to the leather stringing belt. In this case, the tensioning strap should be used before every shave.

There are 4 types of ironing paste:

• Yellow ironing paste
• Green ironing paste
• Red ironing paste
• White ironing paste

Yellow ironing paste is an oily paste that cares for and protects the leather of the ironing belt. This makes the ironing belt last longer.

The Green ironing paste has a strong polishing effect and is applied to the leather of the stretching belt.

The Red paste has a medium polishing effect and is applied to the leather of the stretching belt.

White ironing paste is for maintaining the canvas side of the ironing belt. This will make the canvas side clean again and last longer.

• The Ardennes Coticule whetstone or Belgian Blue Lawstone from the Ardennes is the best whetstone for sharpening and maintaining the open razor. 
• This whetstone has a yellow Coticule top stone with a grit (grain) of 6000 - 8000 and a blue bottom stone with a grit of 4000.
• Only the yellow top stone is suitable for sharpening the razor.